I started a parallel blog on wordpress - you can read about my trips here: http://scottstrips.wordpress.com/
I’m still trying to work out which is best of the two platforms, I’ll be cross-posting for a while, to see if I can make up my mind…
Keep on moving :)
Friday 13 December 2013
Monday 11 November 2013
ICELAND - day 22
05.09.13
Iceland, and Reykjavik in particular, is extremely pedestrian and cycling friendly, with a large network of paths and lanes that allow you to reach virtually anywhere. The people are welcoming and friendly, always ready to be of help or to have a chat. Surely we’ll have to come back for some serious hiking. Although I wouldn’t live here – too rainy – it’s a great place to wander around.
NOTE ON KEFLAVIK AIRPORT – worst airport to sleep so far: metal chairs with armrests for each seat, not noisy but far too bright. Totally uncomfortable.
Airports should have hostel-like accomodation for overnight passengers, or even just a section with long chairs, even for a price, so people waiting for early morning flights could get a few hours sleep.
NOTE TO SELF – bad choice of clothing… I concentrated on weight alone, but I should have also considered location and situation – days in town and driving around, instead I only brought hiking clothes (and heavy hiking boots)…
KM DRIVEN: 2,404
Iceland, and Reykjavik in particular, is extremely pedestrian and cycling friendly, with a large network of paths and lanes that allow you to reach virtually anywhere. The people are welcoming and friendly, always ready to be of help or to have a chat. Surely we’ll have to come back for some serious hiking. Although I wouldn’t live here – too rainy – it’s a great place to wander around.
NOTE ON KEFLAVIK AIRPORT – worst airport to sleep so far: metal chairs with armrests for each seat, not noisy but far too bright. Totally uncomfortable.
Airports should have hostel-like accomodation for overnight passengers, or even just a section with long chairs, even for a price, so people waiting for early morning flights could get a few hours sleep.
NOTE TO SELF – bad choice of clothing… I concentrated on weight alone, but I should have also considered location and situation – days in town and driving around, instead I only brought hiking clothes (and heavy hiking boots)…
KM DRIVEN: 2,404
ICELAND - day 20
03.09.13
We’re on the last day of our stay, so we spent it shopping to take home a few things for our friends and relatives. We checked the “largest shopping centre in Iceland” only to find it exactly the same as any other, so we headed into town and got a few bits and pieces, including some stuff for ourselves, hoping that winter will be winter and we can actually use them!
We’re on the last day of our stay, so we spent it shopping to take home a few things for our friends and relatives. We checked the “largest shopping centre in Iceland” only to find it exactly the same as any other, so we headed into town and got a few bits and pieces, including some stuff for ourselves, hoping that winter will be winter and we can actually use them!
ICELAND - day 19
02.09.13
Back to Reykjavik, not without a dose of pelting rain and fierce winds! We kept on our tour of the Reykjanes peninsula, after visiting the Geological and Saltfish Museum in Grindavik. Rosie managed also to taste the fermented shark, an Icelandic speciality (apparently). Me, I stayed put with a slice of chocolate cake and a latte.
We then moved on along the coast between rain-sun-cloud-sun-rain-cloud-sun…
and we reached some wild seashore, a geothermal pool and station, and the Bridge Over Two Continents, on the fissure where the two earth plates meet (and separate by 1 cm every year).
We then turned back to the capital and unloaded the van at our friend’s house, then we took back the van to Kuku Campers.
It’s been a very pleasant holiday, full of things seen (and still to be seen) – surely we have to come back as this country’s really inspiring. After a shower, we had dinner at the house and tomorrow we’re planning some shopping. I’m looking forward to a warm, soft sleep…
Back to Reykjavik, not without a dose of pelting rain and fierce winds! We kept on our tour of the Reykjanes peninsula, after visiting the Geological and Saltfish Museum in Grindavik. Rosie managed also to taste the fermented shark, an Icelandic speciality (apparently). Me, I stayed put with a slice of chocolate cake and a latte.
We then moved on along the coast between rain-sun-cloud-sun-rain-cloud-sun…
and we reached some wild seashore, a geothermal pool and station, and the Bridge Over Two Continents, on the fissure where the two earth plates meet (and separate by 1 cm every year).
We then turned back to the capital and unloaded the van at our friend’s house, then we took back the van to Kuku Campers.
It’s been a very pleasant holiday, full of things seen (and still to be seen) – surely we have to come back as this country’s really inspiring. After a shower, we had dinner at the house and tomorrow we’re planning some shopping. I’m looking forward to a warm, soft sleep…
ICELAND - day 18
01.09.13
Overall, a very wet day. We started in the morning with a short tour of the village we spent the night in, Reykholt – very nice and tiny. Then we moved down the road to see a geothermal pool nearby.
Going back towards Reykjavik we stopped for a short hike up to the highest waterfall in Iceland: Grymul.
The hike wasn’t very long but it was quite steep in treacherous terrain, but the view from there was well worth it. Just as we took a few pictures of this cascading marvel, it started to rain, and together with the fiercely wind, it sent us back on out tracks. The hike also involved the crossing of a river via a log and wire… we both decides to cross it sitting and moving along the log – hilarious (especially for my bum…).
By the time we were back to the van, we were totally drenched, so we treated ouselves with a cup-a-soup and a hot meal of sausage and mash!
After warming up somewhat and a change of trousers, we went on towards Reykjavik and the Reykjanes Peninsula, where we managed to see another geothermal pool – just.
We then decided to call it a day, and we’re stopping in Grindavik for the night. Tomorrow is our last day with the van, so, we have a Geological Museum planned here, and then, depending on the weather, we’ll decide how to go on to be in Reykjavik by 6:00 pm, to give the van back.
Overall, a very wet day. We started in the morning with a short tour of the village we spent the night in, Reykholt – very nice and tiny. Then we moved down the road to see a geothermal pool nearby.
Going back towards Reykjavik we stopped for a short hike up to the highest waterfall in Iceland: Grymul.
The hike wasn’t very long but it was quite steep in treacherous terrain, but the view from there was well worth it. Just as we took a few pictures of this cascading marvel, it started to rain, and together with the fiercely wind, it sent us back on out tracks. The hike also involved the crossing of a river via a log and wire… we both decides to cross it sitting and moving along the log – hilarious (especially for my bum…).
By the time we were back to the van, we were totally drenched, so we treated ouselves with a cup-a-soup and a hot meal of sausage and mash!
After warming up somewhat and a change of trousers, we went on towards Reykjavik and the Reykjanes Peninsula, where we managed to see another geothermal pool – just.
We then decided to call it a day, and we’re stopping in Grindavik for the night. Tomorrow is our last day with the van, so, we have a Geological Museum planned here, and then, depending on the weather, we’ll decide how to go on to be in Reykjavik by 6:00 pm, to give the van back.
ICELAND - day 17
31.08.13
So we reached the end of August. And we have 2 days left with our campervan adventure. We’ve seen lots and lots of interesting and beautiful things – we’ve been very satisfied with our holiday, and the campervan proved just about right for us, so much so we’re planning on buying one of our own.
Today we started off with a visit to the excellent Textile Museum in Akureiri – it was really interesting and the lady there was extremely helpful with her explanations.
We then moved on further West on road no. 1 (the ring road) and went to the Seals Museum in Svalbarði, followed by a drive along the fjord to see some live seals, lazing around on the rocks in the bay.
Driving along we climbed to the top of a small volcano in Viðei, where we also went and see a lava cave, a mile long. We didn’t go inside the cave, as we didn’t have the right equipment, but I’m sure it would have been great.
To end the day, we went and see a couple of waterfalls in Hravnafoss and Barnafoss. Barnafoss had water coming out from the rocks in the mountain, going from underground directly to the river. Seeing all these things makes you want to grab a whole lot of books and start reading and studying all these natural phenomena and a whole bunch of history, then, once you get home, you get stuck on facebook and that’s it…
So we reached the end of August. And we have 2 days left with our campervan adventure. We’ve seen lots and lots of interesting and beautiful things – we’ve been very satisfied with our holiday, and the campervan proved just about right for us, so much so we’re planning on buying one of our own.
Today we started off with a visit to the excellent Textile Museum in Akureiri – it was really interesting and the lady there was extremely helpful with her explanations.
We then moved on further West on road no. 1 (the ring road) and went to the Seals Museum in Svalbarði, followed by a drive along the fjord to see some live seals, lazing around on the rocks in the bay.
Driving along we climbed to the top of a small volcano in Viðei, where we also went and see a lava cave, a mile long. We didn’t go inside the cave, as we didn’t have the right equipment, but I’m sure it would have been great.
To end the day, we went and see a couple of waterfalls in Hravnafoss and Barnafoss. Barnafoss had water coming out from the rocks in the mountain, going from underground directly to the river. Seeing all these things makes you want to grab a whole lot of books and start reading and studying all these natural phenomena and a whole bunch of history, then, once you get home, you get stuck on facebook and that’s it…
ICELAND - day 16
30.08.13
Not too bad a day overall, weather-wise – it was nice this morning, while we visited the Akureyri Museum, the Industrial Museum and the Aviation Museum.
We enjoyed all three, but maybe, the Industrial museum a little less, as the explanatory captions in English were few and far between…
We also had a walk through the town centre, taking advantage of the pale sun. We had confirmation from the info centre that the weather alert fot the highlands (and road no. 35) was confirmed, so we had to settle with route no. 1, continuing our counter-clockwise tour.
We stopped in Viðmyri to take a look at the “oldest and prittiest” (it was) turf church, then we headed to Blonduos, where we’re stopping for the night at a No. 1 petrol station.
The temperature is rather cold, and we had a little sleet mixed with rain earlier on. I’ll soon cuddle up in my sleeping bag…
Not too bad a day overall, weather-wise – it was nice this morning, while we visited the Akureyri Museum, the Industrial Museum and the Aviation Museum.
We enjoyed all three, but maybe, the Industrial museum a little less, as the explanatory captions in English were few and far between…
We also had a walk through the town centre, taking advantage of the pale sun. We had confirmation from the info centre that the weather alert fot the highlands (and road no. 35) was confirmed, so we had to settle with route no. 1, continuing our counter-clockwise tour.
We stopped in Viðmyri to take a look at the “oldest and prittiest” (it was) turf church, then we headed to Blonduos, where we’re stopping for the night at a No. 1 petrol station.
The temperature is rather cold, and we had a little sleet mixed with rain earlier on. I’ll soon cuddle up in my sleeping bag…
ICELAND - day 15
29.08.13
My left knee’s been giving me grief all day, but still I managed to do some walking around. It’s the second time running that it swells a lot, giving me pain walking.Nevertheless, we went to a couple of spots always around lake Myvatn, then, on our way to Akureyri we went and see Gullafoss, a nice waterfall, although not as spectacular as the other 2 major ones we saw.
Further on, we visited the old turf houses of Lufas,
originally a farm house then turned into a rectory. All the walls were
made of turf – I’m always amazed when I see how houses can be built like
that.
We finally made it to Akureyri, capital of the North. It is in fact quite a large town. As the weather forcast is rather terrible for tomorrow, we planned visiting a few museums. In case the forcast’s wrong, there are a couple of historical walks we can do around town.
We’re parked at an Olis in the main shopping centre for the night.
TRAVELLED TO: Gullafoss – Ystafell – Lufas – Akureyri
My left knee’s been giving me grief all day, but still I managed to do some walking around. It’s the second time running that it swells a lot, giving me pain walking.Nevertheless, we went to a couple of spots always around lake Myvatn, then, on our way to Akureyri we went and see Gullafoss, a nice waterfall, although not as spectacular as the other 2 major ones we saw.
We
then stopped at a Transport Museum in Ystafell – a great collection of
old cars, some still in repair-mode and others that looked brand new.
Also, bicycles, tractors, motor-bikes, tools and other
transport-connected memorabilia. Quite fascinating.
We finally made it to Akureyri, capital of the North. It is in fact quite a large town. As the weather forcast is rather terrible for tomorrow, we planned visiting a few museums. In case the forcast’s wrong, there are a couple of historical walks we can do around town.
We’re parked at an Olis in the main shopping centre for the night.
TRAVELLED TO: Gullafoss – Ystafell – Lufas – Akureyri
ICELAND - day 14
28.08.13
I’m so tired I can barely write tonight. We started the day on a whale-watching tour, where we spotted a whale in the Bay of Skja. Although quite large, it looked really tiny in the vastity of the ocean. Whale spotting is really difficult (and tiring), as you squint in the sunshine trying to catch a spray or a movement somewhere on the sea – really hard. On the way back from our tour we were treated by the boat crew to hot chocolate and a local pastry – really welcomed after the cold wind of the journey. We went on tour with Gentle Giants company, that also offered a 10% discount for the enttry of the Whale Museum nearby – well worth seeing!
I think all museums and info points of this country are extremely well done – you can litterally spend hours on end in each one of them, if you want to take in all the information given. This one, apart from some very comprehensive information on whales, focused on sea pollution levels… the amount of crap we humans manage to throw out at sea is really unbelievable…
After the whales, we stocked up and headed to Myvatn, a very large lake with lots of islets in it, and surrounded by volcanoes – one of which we climbed and walked around the whole rim. All the volcanoes here are actually (apparently) off.
Then we saw some incredible lava formations in the nearby area, and then we finally parked at a campsite for the night, where we had a nice pizza.
The guide this morning told us it’s possible to see some northern lights between 1:00 and 2:00 am – we’ll see if we can spot anything between the clouds and if we’re still awake then…
TRAVELLED TO: Grjotagja (lava formations) – Hverfjall (crater walk) – Dimmuborgir (lava formations) – Myvatn
I’m so tired I can barely write tonight. We started the day on a whale-watching tour, where we spotted a whale in the Bay of Skja. Although quite large, it looked really tiny in the vastity of the ocean. Whale spotting is really difficult (and tiring), as you squint in the sunshine trying to catch a spray or a movement somewhere on the sea – really hard. On the way back from our tour we were treated by the boat crew to hot chocolate and a local pastry – really welcomed after the cold wind of the journey. We went on tour with Gentle Giants company, that also offered a 10% discount for the enttry of the Whale Museum nearby – well worth seeing!
I think all museums and info points of this country are extremely well done – you can litterally spend hours on end in each one of them, if you want to take in all the information given. This one, apart from some very comprehensive information on whales, focused on sea pollution levels… the amount of crap we humans manage to throw out at sea is really unbelievable…
After the whales, we stocked up and headed to Myvatn, a very large lake with lots of islets in it, and surrounded by volcanoes – one of which we climbed and walked around the whole rim. All the volcanoes here are actually (apparently) off.
Then we saw some incredible lava formations in the nearby area, and then we finally parked at a campsite for the night, where we had a nice pizza.
The guide this morning told us it’s possible to see some northern lights between 1:00 and 2:00 am – we’ll see if we can spot anything between the clouds and if we’re still awake then…
TRAVELLED TO: Grjotagja (lava formations) – Hverfjall (crater walk) – Dimmuborgir (lava formations) – Myvatn
ICELAND - day 13
27.08.13
We drove our way back from Askja, after a cold night and a short walk along a kanyon near the campsite, that took us to a waterfall.
We moved North to Asburgi and along the road we drove through 6 dry-river crossings that I tackled excellently ;p …
At the end of the F-road this morning, we found a cosy little town café in a microscopic village where the petrol pumps where inside cabins…
A few houses and a small church completed the picture – ever so charming!
The place is called Modrudalur.
On the way to Asburgi we stopped in Dettifoss, to take a look at the amazing Dullafoss, the most powerful waterfall in the country, with 50,000,000 tons of water falling at any one time.
Past Dettifoss, we encountered some spectaculat basaltic formations, where there were columns starting off in every direction – absolutely amazing!
After our scramble on basaltic rock, we headed to Husavik,
where we stopped for the night. We fuelled up and treated ourselves to a
meal out in a nice little fish restaurant, where we had some delicious
unpronouncible specialities without spending an arm and a leg.
And tomorrow, we’re off to some whale-watching, so let’s hope the weather holds.
TRAVELLED TO: Modrudalur – Dettifoss – Husavik
We drove our way back from Askja, after a cold night and a short walk along a kanyon near the campsite, that took us to a waterfall.
We moved North to Asburgi and along the road we drove through 6 dry-river crossings that I tackled excellently ;p …
At the end of the F-road this morning, we found a cosy little town café in a microscopic village where the petrol pumps where inside cabins…
A few houses and a small church completed the picture – ever so charming! The place is called Modrudalur.
On the way to Asburgi we stopped in Dettifoss, to take a look at the amazing Dullafoss, the most powerful waterfall in the country, with 50,000,000 tons of water falling at any one time.
Also,
just a little upstream from Dullafoss, is Sellfoss, rather large and
gaining speed to form the downstream waterfall. It’s indeed powerful,
and you can’t even see where the water touches the river…
Past Dettifoss, we encountered some spectaculat basaltic formations, where there were columns starting off in every direction – absolutely amazing!
After our scramble on basaltic rock, we headed to Husavik,
where we stopped for the night. We fuelled up and treated ourselves to a
meal out in a nice little fish restaurant, where we had some delicious
unpronouncible specialities without spending an arm and a leg. And tomorrow, we’re off to some whale-watching, so let’s hope the weather holds.
ICELAND - day 12
26.08.13
Today we headed for Askja, an enormous caldera with a large lake in the middle and a smaller hot pool by the lake side.
The scenery of the Icelandic highlands on the way there is absolutely amazing!
You go from vast a-ha lava fields to barren ash planes with scattered lava blocks scattered here and there. It’s really all too much to take in.
The road to get there, no. F910, offers a few river crossings and ensures your back needs a long rest, but it’s really worth it once you reach the campsite (no wild camping in the highlands, as the whole area in a National Park).
We got a little further and took a nice 5 km walk inside the caldera, up to the lake.
TRAVELLED TO: Skriðuklaustur – Karahnjukar (dam) – Drekagil – Askja
Today we headed for Askja, an enormous caldera with a large lake in the middle and a smaller hot pool by the lake side.
The scenery of the Icelandic highlands on the way there is absolutely amazing!
You go from vast a-ha lava fields to barren ash planes with scattered lava blocks scattered here and there. It’s really all too much to take in.
The road to get there, no. F910, offers a few river crossings and ensures your back needs a long rest, but it’s really worth it once you reach the campsite (no wild camping in the highlands, as the whole area in a National Park).
We got a little further and took a nice 5 km walk inside the caldera, up to the lake.
The caldera ring is immense and windswept. I guess the night will be pretty cold up here…
ICELAND - day 11
25.08.13
We kept on our way North of the East Coast, in and out of fjords. We passed a few picturesque towns and visited a few local Museums.
A French Fishermen Museum, in the French-influenced town of Fiorður; a WWII Museum in Eskifiorður; and a Maritime and Natural History/Geology museum in Neskaupsstaður, where the maritime section was mainly dedicated to herring fishing, a very common trade in this area.
All the museums we see are very nice, full of interesting documents, they really have lots of material and we normally spend at least one good hour just examining everything there is, even if it’s just one room. The French Fisheries museum had lots of books and documents, and we treated ourselves to a waffle and a slice of rhubarb cake at the museum café, after our visit. The exhibition itself was just a large room with lots of material in it.
The WWII museum was slightly larger, but there again it had plenty of material, old artifacts and explanatory posters. Paying full price there, got us a 20% discount in a few other museums in the area.
We finished our tour with a maritime museum concentrating on herring fishing, partaining to that particular fjord. This museum was on three floors, the 2nd floor containing a collection of maritime tools and objects, and the 3rd contained a collection of local wildlife – mainly birds – and rocks. Really fascinating – shame we only had half an hour to visit it before closing time, so we had to rush through it a bit… When we got out, we took a walk along the small harbour where we saw a lot of starfish and jellyfish, just there, swimming lazily in the water. Amazing.
The day was mostly sunny and, notably, we passed a one-car tunnel… kind of scary, as it was totally dark too.
We’re now parked by a lake for the night – splendid!
TRAVELLED TO: Stoðvar fiordur – Faskruðfiordur – Eskifiorður – [tunnel] – Neskaupsstaður – Egilsstaðir
We kept on our way North of the East Coast, in and out of fjords. We passed a few picturesque towns and visited a few local Museums.
A French Fishermen Museum, in the French-influenced town of Fiorður; a WWII Museum in Eskifiorður; and a Maritime and Natural History/Geology museum in Neskaupsstaður, where the maritime section was mainly dedicated to herring fishing, a very common trade in this area.
All the museums we see are very nice, full of interesting documents, they really have lots of material and we normally spend at least one good hour just examining everything there is, even if it’s just one room. The French Fisheries museum had lots of books and documents, and we treated ourselves to a waffle and a slice of rhubarb cake at the museum café, after our visit. The exhibition itself was just a large room with lots of material in it.
The WWII museum was slightly larger, but there again it had plenty of material, old artifacts and explanatory posters. Paying full price there, got us a 20% discount in a few other museums in the area.
We finished our tour with a maritime museum concentrating on herring fishing, partaining to that particular fjord. This museum was on three floors, the 2nd floor containing a collection of maritime tools and objects, and the 3rd contained a collection of local wildlife – mainly birds – and rocks. Really fascinating – shame we only had half an hour to visit it before closing time, so we had to rush through it a bit… When we got out, we took a walk along the small harbour where we saw a lot of starfish and jellyfish, just there, swimming lazily in the water. Amazing.
The day was mostly sunny and, notably, we passed a one-car tunnel… kind of scary, as it was totally dark too.
We’re now parked by a lake for the night – splendid!
TRAVELLED TO: Stoðvar fiordur – Faskruðfiordur – Eskifiorður – [tunnel] – Neskaupsstaður – Egilsstaðir
ICELAND - day 10
24.08.13
Started along the East fjords – what an extraordinary scenery! Finally the day was mostly sunny, so we managed to actually SEE the landscape. Really grand!
We took a lot of pictures, but, as always, I guess most of them won’t do any justice to the actual place… Although I wouldn’t live here, for it’s far too wet and cold for me, the nature is amazing. A geological paradise, straight out from Middle Earth.
We took a couple of walks, one to an excellent reconstruction of a settlers’ fortified village, and another one in search of particular geological formations (found!).
Altogether, another excellent day, full of beauty and inspiration.
TRAVELLED TO: Vestrahorn – geology along the coast – Breiðdalsnk
Started along the East fjords – what an extraordinary scenery! Finally the day was mostly sunny, so we managed to actually SEE the landscape. Really grand!
There’s
no spot you can avoid stopping at, yet in the end you can’t just stop
every half a mile or so… there’s so much your eyes have to take in…
We took a lot of pictures, but, as always, I guess most of them won’t do any justice to the actual place… Although I wouldn’t live here, for it’s far too wet and cold for me, the nature is amazing. A geological paradise, straight out from Middle Earth.
We took a couple of walks, one to an excellent reconstruction of a settlers’ fortified village, and another one in search of particular geological formations (found!).
Altogether, another excellent day, full of beauty and inspiration.
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